The Best of 2009: Memphis Magazine
January 1st, 2009
by Mary Helen Randall
Maybe it's Circa's "Wall of Wine," or the regional/Continental cuisine with French accents created by chef and owner John Bragg, or maybe it's just the consistently fine fare and service. Maybe it's a gumbo of all of these, but whatever it is, it's working. Many new restaurants have tried to make it in the downtown dining scene and fallen short, but Bragg seems to have his finger on the pulse of what makes diners happy — and coming back for more. The restaurant has a hip, edgy vibe without coming off cold or industrial — not an easy combo to reconcile — and a menu that is as creative as it is constantly evolving. Bragg knows when to keep things simple (crawfish beignets served with a spicy remoulade or the earthy wild mushroom risotto), and when to add his own flair to an otherwise pedestrian dish (sorghum cured rack of lamb with sweet potato shitake flan and cranberry rosemary jus). The menu's suggested wines for each dish take the worry out of pairing, and the desserts, well, they're worth every minute on the treadmill the next day.
